Tuesday Tip: Color Correction for Natural Light Brown Hair

This woman’s natural hair color is light brown with 60% white.

She had been going to a salon where her hair was being highlighted with powder lightener and low lighted with permanent color.

Color Correction for Natural Light Brown Hair
Color Correction for Natural Light Brown Hair

We applied 60g of permanent 6N (Dark Blonde) + 4g of Green Concentrate + 60g of 20-volume developer to her new growth only.

It was processed for 30 minutes and rinsed.

We then highlighted only her new growth area using foils with XL-Powder mixed with 20-volume developer.

At the same time between the foils and down the shaft we low-lighted using 60g of D-6G + 4g of D-8RO + 60g of 10-volume developer.

After the highlights and lowlights were shampooed from her hair we did a final overall glaze using 60g of D-10G + 15g of D-8GB + 75g of 10-volume developer.

Give me a call if you have questions.

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Tuesday Tip: Everyday Correction

Stephanie had colored her hair at home using what she thought was semi-permanent color.

Her hair was naturally light brown but after the “semi” wore away, she was left with a natural light brown regrowth and brassy mid-shaft and ends.

 

Everyday Hair color Correction by chromastics
Everyday Hair color Correction by chromastics

How I Corrected Her Color:

I highlighted, low lighted and finished with an overall glaze.

The highlight was just 12 foils only on the top using 30g of XL-Cream and 30g of 40-volume developer.

The lowlight formula was 20g D-4G + 5g of Gold Concentrate and 20g of 10-volume developer.

The overall glaze formula was 45g of D-4G + 15g of D-8GB and 60g of 10-volume developer. The glaze was applied over the high and low lights and processed for 20 minutes.

Give me a call if you have questions.

If you have a question that you would like to see answered as part of our Tuesday Tips from Tom series, please let us know!
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Tuesday Tip: Golden Blonde to Red in 30 Minutes

Golden Blonde to Red in 30 Minutes
Golden Blonde to Red in 30 Minutes

This young lady came to a class I was teaching with 2 inches of new growth that was natural darkest blonde/lightest brown with no gray.
From the photo you can see she was previously lightened to a golden blonde.
I thought she’d look better as a redhead.
So, First I shampooed her with clarifying shampoo and towel dried her hair.
Then I mixed 45g of 6RO + 15g of 4RO and 60g of 10-volume developer.
I always clarify before coloring or bleaching the hair.
I applied to the new growth for the first 10 minutes and pulled the color through all the remaining hair for the last 20 minutes.
Total processing time was 30 minutes.
I think she looks much better as a redhead. What do you think?

Give me a call if you have questions.

If you have a question that you would like to see answered as part of our Tuesday Tips from Tom series, please let us know!
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Beautiful Hair Color at Any Age

This picture is of my 82 year old grandmother. Wow! We can have beautiful hair color at ANY age!

Beautiful Hair Color at Any Age

In the past, she has worn a light blonde that had lots of charisma on it’s own, but the day came when my grandmother felt the warmth wasn’t as natural and “age appropriate”. Considering the fact that her natural color is snow white. Zero pigment in the hair, translation: a BLANK CANVAS! My colorist dreams came true when my grandmother said she’d like a “champagne color, or crisp blonde”.

We brought her in to the salon and used a level 10 Neutral with 2 grams of Green Concentrate and 25 volume developer. I went through with liquid Clear after complete color process to add extra protein (the liquid Clear has all five: keratin, silk, soy, rice, AND wheat proteins!), and added even MORE brilliance to the color formulation.

She was “tickled” with the results, and after a minute of adjusting to her new, more natural blonde, my grandmother said, “let’s call this color PEARL”.

Reminding us, hair color can be natural and brilliant to be fun. Having your clients reflect on small changes they’d like to make, allows your creativity to shine each visit. Plus, having your client name their hair color (they LOVE this!) brings them into the entire creative experience that happens behind the chair. Chromastics color hands back the ability of creativity to our industry of colorists.

Light and love, Caitlin

Taking blonde from bland to an extraordinary red head

There’s an art to making high-impact eyes stand out.  If a red palette sounds limiting because of the season, think again.  My vision for Nicole was a grunge-inspired cranberry, the shade has never seemed so appealing to her barely-there eye color, creating a brilliant baby blue gaze.

Reds can be easily achieved when a shade is customized to accentuate your client’s best features.  For this client I revolved my formulation around her skin tone and most of all, her eye color.  The shade has to make the client glow from within.

To determine if your client can achieve such a drastic change such as red, evaluate the skin tone and decide if she has warm or cool undertones. A great way to test your thoughts is to hold a piece of white paper up to the client’s face. If the skin coloring appears to be pink, she’s a cool tone. If it appears yellow or olive, she’s a warm tone. This is the best way to formulate the perfect shade of red.

chromastics-red-before-after-ginger

Formula & Instructions:
  1. 60 grams 2RO + 60 grams 2RV + 40 grams XL Cream + 120 grams 20 Volume Developer
  2. Processed for 30 minutes
  3. Towel dried after shampooing and applied a demi glaze of 90 grams 4RO + equal parts 10 Volume Developer
  4. Processed for 20 minutes