Tuesday Tip: Everyday Correction

Stephanie had colored her hair at home using what she thought was semi-permanent color.

Her hair was naturally light brown but after the “semi” wore away, she was left with a natural light brown regrowth and brassy mid-shaft and ends.

 

Everyday Hair color Correction by chromastics
Everyday Hair color Correction by chromastics

How I Corrected Her Color:

I highlighted, low lighted and finished with an overall glaze.

The highlight was just 12 foils only on the top using 30g of XL-Cream and 30g of 40-volume developer.

The lowlight formula was 20g D-4G + 5g of Gold Concentrate and 20g of 10-volume developer.

The overall glaze formula was 45g of D-4G + 15g of D-8GB and 60g of 10-volume developer. The glaze was applied over the high and low lights and processed for 20 minutes.

Give me a call if you have questions.

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Tuesday Tip: Correcting to a beautiful dark blonde

This young woman came into the salon after having her hair lightened, highlighted, lowlighted and toned. I thought she’d look better as a dark blonde, lightest brown. Because of the length and volume of her hair, one large formula was mixed.

It was applied first to all of the new growth and then immediately pulled through the shaft and ends. Hair was processed for 20 minutes.

The corrective formula was 90g of D6G + 15g of D4BV + 90g of 10 volume developer.

Tuesday Tip: Accent Colors

Forest Green, Lilac, Light Blueberry Hair Color!

I was lucky enough to work with Tracey Hughes at the Premiere Beauty Show in Orlando earlier this month. What a talent! She wanted accent colors for her models and here are three of the formulas we used. Tracey is relocating from Australia to the United States where you’ll be able to catch her high powered hair and business presentations. Go to her website http://traceyhughes.com.au/ and see her amazing work.

forest green hair color

Forest Green

30g of Green Concentrate
+ 1g of 1N, Black
+ 1g of Blue Concentrate

lilac hair color

Lilac

8g of D8BV
+ 6g of D4RV
+ 40g of D-Clear

blueberry hair color

Light Blueberry

30g of D8BV
+ 2g of Blue Concentrate

Give me a call if you have questions.

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Tuesday Tip: Mixing RO and RV

Ever wonder what the results are when you mix 4RO and 4RV together?
Here’s a great visual.

Mixing RO and RV Red-Swatches
The far left is 4RV on white hair.
The far right is 4RO on white hair.

You can see from the mixtures that RV tends to take over the formula even when there is only 1/2 an ounce of RV added to 3 times as much RO.
Remember this, A small amount of RV with neutralize the orangeness of an RO and make it lean more toward a cool red.

And… a little RO in an RV formula will make it appear brighter.

Hope you like this tip.

Give me a call if you have questions.

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Tuesday Tip: Golden Blonde to Red in 30 Minutes

Golden Blonde to Red in 30 Minutes
Golden Blonde to Red in 30 Minutes

This young lady came to a class I was teaching with 2 inches of new growth that was natural darkest blonde/lightest brown with no gray.
From the photo you can see she was previously lightened to a golden blonde.
I thought she’d look better as a redhead.
So, First I shampooed her with clarifying shampoo and towel dried her hair.
Then I mixed 45g of 6RO + 15g of 4RO and 60g of 10-volume developer.
I always clarify before coloring or bleaching the hair.
I applied to the new growth for the first 10 minutes and pulled the color through all the remaining hair for the last 20 minutes.
Total processing time was 30 minutes.
I think she looks much better as a redhead. What do you think?

Give me a call if you have questions.

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Tuesday Tip: Correction on a double-process blonde

I’ve been working with Tracey Hughes from Australia for the last 5 days at the Premiere Beauty Show in Orlando, Florida.

We colored 18 models at the show, many of them double- process blondes. I’ll post all of them with formulas later in the month. Here is one correction I did using a freehand painting technique.
Correction on a double-process blondes

I first added 8 foils at to her new growth using XL-Cream with 20-volume and then painted lowlights of D6G with 10-volume through the shaft.

I finished with an overall glaze of L10N for 10 minutes.

It was a simple solution that yielded beautiful results.

Give me a call if you have questions.

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Tuesday Tip: Diluting Neutral shades with XL-Cream

The first swatch you see in the photo is virgin salt and pepper light brown hair.

The center swatch has been colored with 4N (Light Neutral Brown) and 20-volume developer.

The third swatch has been colored with equal parts of 4N (Light Neutral Brown) and 20-volume developer. Both swatches were timed for 35 minutes.

Diluting Neutral shades with XL-Cream

Adding XL-Cream to any formula allows you to create lighter and more translucent final results.

  • 3 parts color and 1 part XL-Cream creates a shade approximately 1 level lighter.
  • Equal parts of XL-Cream and color creates a shades approximately 2 levels lighter.

Use the 3 to 1 ratio when your client’s color is just a little too dark and you want to transition to a lighter shade. Add a few highlights to the top to blend the new color with the old.

Let me know if you have questions I can answer by demonstrating on swatches.

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Tuesday Tip: How Red is 2RO?

Most colorists don’t realize how strong chromastics 2RO is.

Probably because most color lines don’t have an RO darker than 3RO or 4RO.

The photo shows swatch:

  1. Full strength 2RO
  2. 2RO diluted with 5 parts of clear to 1 part of 2RO
  3. 2RO diluted with 10 parts of clear to 1 part of 2RO

All of the swatches show a lot of red color.

This means you can increase the wearability of a Red-Orange formula by adding:

  • 1g of 2RO to level 10 formulas
  • 2g of 2RO to level 8 formulas
  • 3g of 2RO to level 6 formulas
  • 4g of 2RO to level 4 formulas

I hope you find this information helpful.

How Red is 2RO

If you haven’t tried Chromastics yet, give us a call. It’s the most versatile color you’ll ever work with.

Give me a call if you have questions.

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Tuesday Tip: Lightening and brightening a formula using XL-Cream

Every once in awhile a client will tell me they like their color but wish I would make it just a little lighter.

When I want to make a color formula a little lighter I add XL-Cream. It doesn’t change the tone of the color, it just makes it a lighter.

Following are 2 examples, one using 4G permanent and the second using 2RO permanent.

The first photo shows the color full strength, the second shows the color diluted with 15g of XC-Cream and the third photo shows the color diluted with equal parts of XL-Cream.

Starting points
4G-chromastics
4G-30g-chromastics
4G-45g-chromastics
2RO-chromastics
2RO-30g-chromastics
2RO-45g-chromastics

Each photo shows the color on both natural white hair and on light brown hair with 50% gray.

All the swatches were processed with 20-volume developer and timed for 35 minutes.

If you haven’t tried Chromastics yet, give us a call. It’s the most versatile color you’ll ever work with.

Give me a call if you have questions.

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Tuesday Tip: Better High-Lift Blonde

Better High-Lift Blonde Hair Color

Every high-lift blonde I’ve ever worked with leaves the hair rough and brassy. The fault, I believe, is in the way they are created. Most high-lift blondes have an ammonia content of 4% and use double amounts of 40-volume This means you have a working volume of 26.66.

I decided to create chromastics high-lift differently.

Chromastics high-lift (XL-Super) has an ammonia content of 3% and uses equal amounts of 40-volume developer. This means you have a working volume of 20.00. The combination of 3% ammonia and a working volume of 20.00 is much less aggressive that an ammonia content of 4% and a working volume of 26.66.

Here are 2 dye outs on virgin white and virgin salt and pepper hair that show the final result.

Virgin Swatches

#1 Virgin Swatches

Final level Dark Blonde

#2 – Final level Dark Blonde

45g of XL-Super + 15g of 3N + 60g of 40-volume developer

Final level Medium Blonde

#3 – Final level Medium Blonde

45g of XL-Super + 15g of 4N + 60g of 40-volume developer

In each formula the darker starting level is diluted by the XL-Super and more importantly, there is no brassiness and there is complete gray coverage.

Give me a call if you have questions.

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